Cilantro Mexican Grill operates out of half a Chevron mini-mart in North Hollywood, which is not a knock so much as a Los Angeles credential at this point, and it arrives Reddit-anointed and pre-loaded with hype. The burrito itself is modest, almost undersized, and the first several bites are nothing but scrambled egg, fluffy and clearly cooked with care, which would matter more if a burrito were judged on its opening inch. The bacon, when it finally surfaces, is thin and properly snap-crisp, and easily the best thing in the wrapper. The tater tots are the problem. They do not appear until the final third, and only as a meager handful, golden and well-fried but rationed like wartime sugar. A breakfast burrito is an exercise in distribution, and this kitchen has not bothered to solve that problem. A bright, freshly made spicy red salsa does more work than the burrito itself. With better ratios, top ten. As built, it is a kitchen coasting on its reputation.